What is the difference between a 6-hole and an 8-hole flute?
The 8-hole flutes have two non-fingered exhaust ports. This allows the flute to be longer without changing the pitch of the flute. On many Irish flutes these exhaust ports are in the position of lower notes on the flute. For example, on a low D flute the first exhaust port, if covered, would play the C#, and the second exhaust port, if covered, would play the low C note. On some flutes these ports can be fitted with keys if desired. The exhaust ports on my 8-hole flutes are not in the positions just described.
On my flutes, at least, I cannot detect a difference in tone or volume between a 6-hole and an 8-hole low D flute, and the fingering is exactly the same for both flutes. Some players feel that the longer 8-hole flute looks more like a traditional Irish flute, and, depending on the weight of the headjoint and tuning slide, it may feel more balanced in the hand. With the lightweight machined pvc tuning joints that I construct, I don’t think that a longer flute is needed for balance, and I prefer the shorter and lighter 6-hole flute. If you are interested in reading about this in greater depth, the topic was discussed on the flute forum at Chiff & Fipple.
http://chiffboard.mati.ca/viewtopic.php?t=53652
Should I get the inline or the offset finger holes?
Will I be able to finger the low D flute?
Inline finger holes are probably the standard for Irish flutes. However, keep in mind that the low D cylindrical-bore flute is a large flute. The design of my low D flute utilizes fairly large finger holes, and the space between the finger may be too much of a stretch for people with less than average adult size hands. One way to partially compensate for the larger distance between the finger holes is to offset the holes for the left and right ring fingers.
I have given the specifications for my larger flutes on the home page of this website. If you have a question about whether you will be able to comfortably reach the finger holes on the low D or larger flute, it may be a good idea to layout the hole positions on a flute-like-object (pipe, broom handle, etc.). This should give you a good idea as to whether you will be able to comfortably finger the flute and whether offset finger holes would be a help.
Personally, I believe that offset finger holes are great and that they make ergonomic sense. Some virtuoso players on the silver flute (Robert Dick)recommend an offset G (left ring finger). However, the distance between finger holes for the right middle finger and the right ring finger is rather large on the low D flute, and I think that it makes good sense to offset this hole as well. Casey Burns, a well-known maker of Irish flutes, offers traditional wooden Irish flutes with offset finger holes that are becomming popular for people with smaller hands.
Another thing that can make a larger flute more playable is to have a joint on the flute between the two hands (3-piece flute). This allows you to rotate the endjoint of the flute making is possible to adjust the fingering between the two hands. I think that the easiest of my flutes to finger is the 3-piece flute with offset finger holes.
However, if your hands are small, it is a good idea to choose a low D flute with a conical bore (much more expensive). The conical bore flute design allows the finger holes of the flute to be closer together. Another thing that you also might consider is choosing a flute in a higher key. My larger bore flutes become progressively easier to finger as you move away from the low D (Eb, E, F). Starting with the key of G, I move to a smaller size of pipe. The G flute is considerably smaller than the low D flute, and most people will be able to finger it with inline finger holes without difficulty. The key of G is also the second most common key in Keltic and most Western folk music.
I now have a separate Flute Finger Hole Comparison page where I compare the finger hole layout of my flute with three conical-bore wooden flutes.
Do you make flutes with interchangeable parts? For example, can I purchase a single headjoint that will fit several flute bodies? At the present time I am not making any flutes with interchangeable parts. Off-the-shelf pvc varies considerably in wall thickness, roundness, and concentricity. If I used a type of loose-fitting joint where spacing material, like cork, string, or O-rings would be used to fill the gap, I could have interchangeable parts. However, I have been machining joints without any spacers. Using this method I have to carefully fit each headjoint to a particular flute body. Although it is time-consuming to machine a joint that accurately, I think that the resulting joints are superior, needing no maintenance or lubrication.
I am a beginner, and I am looking for instructional material for the Irish flute. What do you recommend?
I think one of the best and most comprehensive books available is Grey Larsen’s “The Essential Guide to the Irish Flute and Tin Whistle”. It can be purchased from many sources. Here is its link at Amazon.com. Please read the summary and reviews.
http://www.amazon.com/Essential-Guide-Irish-Flute-Whistle/dp/0786649429 < xml="true" ns="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" prefix="o" namespace="">
I also recommend the Irish Flute tutorial presented by Seamus Egan on CD-ROM and produced by Mad For Trad. Sample tutorials are available at the website. This CD-ROM may often be purchased used on ebay or other sources, as well.
Michael Eskin, a very talented multi-instrumentalist and teacher living in the San Diego, CA area has recorded with my pvc flutes (see audio files page). He has a new online site with YouTube hosted instruction videos at TradLesson.com. Currently, there is only one Irish flute video, but you can watch the fingering and listen to the tunes on the other whistle videos. I wish Michael well in his new teaching endeavor.
Finally, I would like to mention two websites with information about the Irish flute that are comprehensive in scope and are especially useful for beginners as well as intermediate players.
A Guide to the Irish Flute
http://www.firescribble.net/flute/begin.html
Terry McGee, Flute Maker
Lastly, you need to know about the online flute forum at www.chiffandfipple.com. You can search on a special word or topic, or, as a member, you can ask a question. The worldwide Irish traditional flute community is waiting to reply.
I am looking for online sources of music for the Irish flute. What do you recommend? < xml="true" ns="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" prefix="o" namespace="">
http://www.kitchenmusician.net/pages/kmmusicbyorigin.html
http://www.oldmusicproject.com/allans.html
http://www.oldmusicproject.com/oneils1.html
http://www.eirefirst.com/midiindex.html
http://irishflute.podbean.com/
Whenever I try to play your flute (low D flute), I have trouble making a good sounding note and my fingers start to cramp after about ten minutes. Is this normal?
If you have never played a flute before, it is normal for it to take several months of practice before you acquire the necessary skills to play the flute without discomfort. The muscles in the lips need to strengthen to be able to play the higher notes. The ability to move between registers on the flute will only come with practice and may require some instruction. Also, with regard to fingering a large flute, hands and fingers that are not accustomed to making the stretch that is required to cover the finger holes will naturally cramp and cause some discomfort in the beginning. In time, as with playing any instrument that requires stretching the fingers (guitar, piano, etc.), the finger stretches become easier and more comfortable with practice. It is important not to overdo it in the beginning, as problems such as tendonitis may result. The choice of conventional or piper’s grip may have a lot to do with how easy or difficult it is for you to hold the flute and cover the finger holes. Ideally, the player should be able to hold the flute in a relaxed position and cover the finger holes with ease. Personally, I like to cover the left hand finger holes with a conventional grip and the right hand finger holes with the piper’s grip. Here again, some instruction may be very helpful.
I am having difficulty blowing a good note on the flute. Can you give me some verbal instruction on how to do this?
Making a nice tone on a flute is easy but may take some time to master. Personally, I think that it is well worth the effort. To begin, see that your lower lip is centered on the embouchure hole. Although there are personal differences in how to form a satisfactory embouchure, I recommend that you place your lower lip so that it is covering about one half of the embouchure hole. Now, with pursed lips blow a steady stream of air towards the opposing edge of the embouchure hole. Imagine yourself blowing through a straw. Now flatten the straw with your lips a blow a stream of air toward the sharp edge of the embouchure or blow hole. Rotate the flute until the best tone is produced and continue to hold the flute in that position. Beginning players of the flute often blow too hard and become out of breath. Blowing too hard also tends to sharpen the flute tone. With good embouchure control a skilled flautist can make a strong flute tone with a small volume of air, mostly directed down into the flute. However, don't expect to master this skill in a couple of weeks. It actually may take months or even years to develop the necessary skills to play at tempo throughout two octaves.
Can I play a simple-system flute in keys other than the fundamental key? If I am unable to finger the large low D flute, what other keys can I reasonably expect to play on smaller flutes in higher keys?
Actually, you can play every flute or whistle in several other major and minor keys other than the fundamental key of the instrument. A discussion of this topic is covered on a thread at the whistle forum at Chiff & Fipple.
http://chiffboard.mati.ca/viewtopic.php?t=48323&highlight=key+chart
A very useful chart is presented to illustrate this topic at the Sassafrass Grove Website:
http://www.angelfire.com/mo/sassafrassgrove/WhistleRoll/Tin_Whistle_Key_and_Mode_Chart.html